Limewashing the farrowing pen

5 05 2008


The farrowing pen gets its seasonal makeover

After an early start planting potatoes, I moved into the byre as the day warmed up to give the farrowing pen its seasonal makeover. I use limewash as it’s inexpensive, breathes, is sympathetic to the original lime-mortared stone walls, is mildly disinfectant and enhances the lighting in what would otherwise be a dark building. (And yes, when I say the day warmed up, I am speaking relatively. There was a cool breeze and it was slightly chilly when not working, but earthing up potatoes with a hoe under the sun was hot work even so. It makes sense to only do the planting in the morning and evening, leaving the rest of the day for other jobs.)


A stiff brush is used to remove dirt and detritus

Among the necessary tools for doing a good job are a stiff churn brush…

A couple of stout limewashing brushes are needed

…at least one and preferably two limewashing brushes, which should be strong, well-made and limewash resistant…

Damp the walls down with a sprayer

…a sprayer containing clean water, to be used in damping down the surfaces to be limewashed…

Limewash needs to be thoroughly stirred before use

…and a 10-litre bucket of white limewash. This bucket of limewash is about four years old, but an advantage of limewash is that it’s unlikely to dry out provided the bucket has an airtight lid. The calcium hydroxide drops out of suspension and the water rises to the surface, but all that’s required is a very thorough stir before use.

The first job was to brush the walls clean

Any surfaces to be limewashed should be thoroughly cleaned, but as I pressure washed and scrubbed the pen yesterday, I could skip that and move straight to brushing any remaining dirt off the walls. This revealed a couple of patches of crumbling lime mortar that will need to be replaced reasonably soon, but I decided to skip over them today as I haven’t the materials to hand.

The walls should be thoroughly damp
The surfaces to be limewashed need to be damp to ensure maximum adhesion, so our little sprayer was put to yet another use. We mainly use it for disinfecting so it needed a thorough rinse with clean water before being filled. The walls need to be damp, not running with water so it’s best to spray lightly several times instead of of whooshing water everywhere.

Yes, it is very hard work!

The convention is that limewash must be applied thinly and evenly to avoid cracking and adhesion problems. However, convention largely applys to fairly smooth surfaces. With rough and pocked surfaces, like those found in the byre, I find it best to apply the limewash with vigour, using horizontal, vertical and diagonal strokes, and slapping the limewash into the deeper crevices. (The Other Half says it sounds like I’m painting with a dead fish.) Once all the pockmarks and cracks are filled with limewash, I switch to the second, drier brush and burnish off all but a very thin, semi-translucent layer of limewash. As it dries, or more correctly carbonates, the limewash absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and its colour develops. Applying limewash, especially on a reasonably large scale on rough surfaces, is very hard work and gives your arms a very good workout. Normally, I’d wear eye protection as limewash is an irritant but my last pair of goggles broke today and, it being a Bank Holiday, none of the nearer hardware stores/builder’s merchants were open.

Limewash can also be used on concrete block work

I also use limewash on concrete blockwork as it adheres quite well—in fact better than it does to some stone—and looks in keeping with the rest of the building. By now, I was approaching the end of the job and was liberally splashed with limewash.

The floor remains to be done

The floor still needs to be done, but the pen is much brighter, lighter and cleaner for having been limewashed. I still have the other pen to do, too, and the woodwork to paint. It never ends…

The pen looks much better, but needs a few repairs

I couldn’t get the limewash brush into a few of the deepest cracks, so they’ll have to be done with a smaller brush later in the week. I’ll also have to find the time and money to make some lime mortar to repoint the soft patches and fill the worst cracks. Still, it looks a lot better. Oh, and a final point. I could use limewash with tallow as this has better adhesion and lasts longer, but I don’t see much point when I have to do the job every year for reasons of cleanliness. With the limewashing done, it was back out to the field to do more tattie planting until gone 7pm. I didn’t feel too tired until I’d sat down for five minutes, then I suddenly realised I was bloody exhausted to put it mildly!


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5 responses to “Limewashing the farrowing pen”

5 05 2008
Stonehead (21:39:16) :

Another advantage of limewash is that it has none of those nasty fumes of many modern paints. It is a mild irritant, but I find that easier to work with than lungs full of fumes.

5 05 2008
thebeadden (22:17:20) :

Thanks for sharing Stonehead.

6 05 2008
Steph in Roker (07:02:30) :

Wow, we painted my sisters living room a couple of weeks ago over a randon flock pattern, and I thought that was hard on the wrists! When you said it carbonates and so the colour develops, what did you mean? Does it not stay white then?

6 05 2008
Deborah (08:18:51) :

It’s wonderful stuff! I’ve become a real fan of it and am gradually working round all the places I can to use it. In the house it has the advantage that if you drip it onto the floor etc it cleans up easily and it comes out of clothing too - yes I’m a messy painter.

I’ve been trying out linseed oil in the exterior woodwork too( the rough wood shed doors), one third linseed oil to two thirds turps and that has stood up remarkably well to the sun and rain here plus it’s also a natural product as well.

6 05 2008
Stonehead (11:25:04) :

Limewash starts as a semi-translucent, thin, milky liquid. It doesn’t dry as such, but instead has a chemical reaction with carbon dioxide in the air. This is carbonation.

Uncoloured limewash will change from translucent and milky to a shade of white. How bright and strong a white depends on the quality of the lime used to make it.

Coloured limewashes change from a semi-translucent liquid to their solid colour as they carbonate. You often won’t know the general colour for a couple of days after painting with it, while the long-term colour may take slightly longer to come through (depending on your drying conditions).

The Old House Store has a good background article on limewash.

You can make your own limewash from slaked lime or lime putty, but slaked lime is hazardous to handle. I can make it, but find it safer and more convenient to use ready made limewash.

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