Salvaging timber
15 12 2006I’m a big fan of re-using salvage and scrap collected from all around the place, but my favourite material has to be wood.
The only downside of salvaged timber is that it’s invariably full of old screws and nails, and removing them can be a chore unless you know a few tricks,
And as I’ve spent the past few days salvaging timber, I thought I might as well document the nail-pulling process (none of the timber had screws so that can wait for another day).
You don’t need an fancy tools - a good quality claw hammer and a block of 2×4 will get you started. A pair of pincers is useful for pulling out smaller nails, while a long pry bar is also useful (if your boys haven’t made off with it!).
A workbench at the right height is easier on the back, especially when you’re pulling a lot of nails, but any firmly secured surface will do in a pinch. I prefer to work outside and usually come up with some sort of improvised support.
Start by hammering the reasonably straight nails through the board so that the point is flush with the board. The nail being hammered should be close to the support but not on top of it or the nail won’t budge. Firm taps are best to start with, particularly when dealing with annular nails like this one. A hard hammer blow can rip a large chunk of timber out of the opposite side of the board.
To straighten a bent nail, push a block of 2×4 hard against the nail, so that the nail curves into the wood. Then firmly tap against the curve until the nail straightens. It can then be knocked flush with the timber, leaving the nail head protruding from the other side.
If the nail is fairly short, you can place the hammer head directly on the board and use the claw to pull the nail out. I prefer not to do this, especially with good quality timber, as the hammer head can mark the board. Instead, use a thin piece of sacrifical timber to protect the board. Longer nails, like this four-inch one, need the 2×4. Use either the two-inch or the four-inch side depending on the length of the nail.
Some nails, particular annular ones, can be difficult to shift, even when knocked through. Stand on the board, with the hammer on the 2×4, and slowly exert pressure on the hammer handle. Do not jerk on the handle or use too much force as you will bring cheap or poorly maintained hammer handles.
This was a straightforward job, so I didn’t have the opportunity to photograph two more methods for extracting nails.
If you have a nail that has passed through the board, but is broken off without a protruding point, then you need a punch. An engineer’s drive pin punch is best as it has a flat head and a long narrow shaft that can pass through the timber without doing more damage.
A centre punch can be used instead, but it can make the hole larger. The narrow point can also slip off the jagged end of the nail.
Place the punch on the end of the nail, then use the hammer to tap the punch and drive the nail through. It can then be pulled.
Where the nail hasn’t passed all the way through the timber and is flush with the surface, then a pry bar with a thin wedge is called for.
Work this under the nail head until you have a reasonably firm grip, apply leverage and lift the nail a little, slide the pry bar further under, and lift again.
You may have to accept some damage to the timber if the nail is firmly hammered in.
This is particularly the case with oval wire and lost-head nails, which usually need some of the surrounding wood to be chiselled away before they can be pulled out. Pincers are particularly useful in removing these types of nail.
And when you’ve removed the nails, don’t throw them away. They can be hammered straight on an anvil (or any piece of reasonably flat iron), resharpened on a grindstone (or even with a file at a pinch), and re-used.
Many of the nails I’m using to build the new chicken runs came from a pig hut that I’m dismantling, and before that they were salvaged from wooden decking and fences. Three uses is probably about the limit, though!
With the timber cleaned up, stack it flat in a dry place with good air flow. I keep some of my timber in the rafters of the outbuildings, while heavier pieces are laid on square scraps of timber on the floor.
The scraps allow air to pass under the wood and stop in coming in contact with any sources of damp or contamination.
This is all good common sense Stoney. I am sure there are many people who would appreciate this advice if they lack the skills necessary to save valuable timber. And you do not find this sort of data easily if you are starting out.
But the best way to remove nails from old timber is to get someone else to do it; as I found when I was assisting replace some flooring and wall boards in a small country church we were renovating. A mate came along and said what could he do to help. The answer was instantly obvious as there was a pile of timber to be rejuvenated.
Ah, your post gave me a flash back to when my daughter, a friend and I renovated our little bungalow. We did most of the work ourselves and we scavenged whatever wood wasn’t eaten by termites from the original structure. Then we scavenged wood from a neighbors house that was hit by a tornado. It was my and my daughters job to de-nail all the wood. It’s amazing how proficient one can become with a hammer and wonder bar (as we call them here) when you’re staring at a pile of wood as tall as yourself. Nice work and valueable information.
I’m just as interested in your metal roof which looks like a modern version of corrugated iron. It was a material used in a Channel Five restoration programme of a building on Seal Island the other night. Can you give more detail about this material as I would like to consider using it for building a hut in my garden and on the allotment.
The roof is made of profile roofing sheet. A local building firm put it on two owners ago and did a great job of it - we regularly have 60mph-plus winds and it doesn’t budge.
A few companies make profile sheet, either in steel like ours (coated with plastic), aluminium or glass-reinforced plastic. A quick google threw up Cladco and Corus Construction.
A good builder’s merchant should stock metal profile sheeting.
I love recycling. My favourite ’shopping centres’ are charity shops and the local garbage tip/recycling centre. My caravan has been completely refurbished using paint, shelving, pavers, floor tiles, wall panelling, lamp shades, curtain hooks and even a new curtain, all obtained from the “shop” at the local tip. I visit there at least weekly, just in case they have something I can use!!! The only clothing I buy new is underwear, socks and shoes. Everything else is recycled - and usually popular brands, eg my latest “find” was an almost new Armani shirt, which cost the huge sum of $2.00 minus 20% discount as it was pensioner discount day!!! How cool is that?
Just wanted to say thank you. I was about to tackle some nail removal this morning, remembered reading this, and grabbed an extra piece for leverage.
The result? Job done in half the time, with less effort, no swearing and no blood spilt.
Thanks again.
That’s great, Diana. I’m pleased the advice helped you.
Do you have any tips on removing nails in corrugated iron roofing .
Do you plan on re-using the iron or not? If you’re going to re-use the iron and it’s held on with proper roofing nails, then you need to cut the nails with a hacksaw blade with some sort of improvised handle. If you try to pull them out with a hammer, you’ll flatten the iron.
Once you’ve cut through all the nails and lifted the iron off, you’ll need to either drive the remains of the nails in or pull them out with pincers and prybars (cut a nick in each side of the nails to give the pincer or prybar good purchase).
If it’s the timber you want to save, then a long-handled pry bar and hammer are best. Use the hammer to flatten the iron and leave the nail proud of the surface, then use the prybar to lever it out. A long-handled bar is best as proper roofing nails have a twisted shank and are very, very hard to shift.
A pair of nail pliars can also be handy at times when you can’t get the hammer to grip the nail.
That is fantastic, thank you.
You are a good cyber citizen.