Topping trees

I decided it was time to tackle the sitka spruce that form a windbreak to the north and west of the vegetable garden today.

Most are are more than 20 feet high with a few topping 30 feet and they’re now blocking the sunlight from the vegetables.

I’ve already topped a few on the north side by using the Land Rover as a scaffolding platform, but I couldn’t use that trick today.

Instead, I had to use either a 15ft pole saw or climb up the trees and top them with a hand saw.

While the pole saw is hard work - try balancing a long pole with a hand saw on the end and then sawing with it - climbing the trees is even worse.

The spruce trees are thick with small branches, the bark is spiky, and the sharp pine needles get in everywhere.

Thick overalls, strong boots, leather gauntlets and some sort of close fitting hat or helmet are essential - and even then you still end up with hundreds of red spots where the needles stab you.

But to cut some of the trees, there was no option but to start climbing.

Once you’re up the tree, you have to find a stable position where you can cut the top off a tree - this often involved standing with one foot on one tree, the other foot on a second tree, and sawing a third.

Of course, some of the six to eight feet long tree tops became hung up and had to be hauled out with ropes.

I managed to get about 20 done and was feeling quite pleased (and tired), until I stepped back and saw little apparent difference to the treeline! It looks like a few more long, hard days up the trees…

First, climb the tree and saw between six and 10 feet off the top with a hand saw.

Then tie a rope to the tree top - this is where being able to tie something like a bowline single-handed comes in useful.

Then pull the tree top down by heaving on the rope. Ideally, you’d have a strong second person to do this so you wouldn’t have to keep climbing down from the trees, but needs must…

As for uses for the tree tops - they make excellent Christmas trees (if you’re going to sell them, treat them with fire retardant), they can be de-limbed and de-barked to make poles, they can be chipped to make paths, mulch or long-term compost or they can be dumped in a corner and left to become a wildlife habitat.

Sitka spruce is not good firewood as it burns fast and has to be well-seasoned (at least two years) or it will block your chimney with tar and creosote. It does make good kindling, though.